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Fitting the wrong length valve to a deep-section rim is a small mistake with an annoying result: a stem that barely clears the rim bed, a pump head that can’t find a straight line on it, or a valve core you can’t reach to top up sealant mid-ride. Get the length right once and it never crosses your mind again.
9th Wave Tubeless Valves are machined from aluminium, not the brass most tubeless valves are still made from, and finished in a black anodized coating that matches the rims they’re built for. The weight saving over brass is modest on its own, but it sits right at the rim — the one place on a wheel where mass costs the most to accelerate and the most to slow back down. On a wheelset you’ve already built light, a heavier valve is the part most riders forget to account for.
The dust caps are aluminium too — we don’t fit plastic to anything. On a high-end carbon wheelset, a cheap plastic cap is usually the first part to crack, seize onto the threads after a wet ride, or simply go missing. These caps are machined from the same aluminium as the valve stem, so they thread on smoothly every time and age the way the rest of the wheel does.
Rim depth decides the length you need, not preference. As a rule of thumb, pick a valve at least 1 cm longer than your rim depth — a 45mm deep rim calls for the 55mm valve, for example. The 35mm valve suits rims up to roughly 25mm deep, the 55mm valve covers 35–45mm rim depths, the 65mm valve is built for 45–50mm sections, and the 80mm valve reaches through the deepest 65mm carbon rims in the 9th Wave range. If your rim depth falls between two lengths, choose the longer one — a valve that’s slightly too long still seats cleanly under a pump head, while one that’s too short won’t reach the rim bed at all.
Each length is sold as a pair, enough for a complete wheelset front and rear, and every one of them mounts and seals exactly the way you’d expect from a dedicated tubeless valve: no adapters, no shims, just the right length for your rim.
Fitting the wrong length valve to a deep-section rim is a small mistake with an annoying result: a stem that barely clears the rim bed, a pump head that can’t find a straight line on it, or a valve core you can’t reach to top up sealant mid-ride. Get the length right once and it never crosses your mind again.
9th Wave Tubeless Valves are machined from aluminium, not the brass most tubeless valves are still made from, and finished in a black anodized coating that matches the rims they’re built for. The weight saving over brass is modest on its own, but it sits right at the rim — the one place on a wheel where mass costs the most to accelerate and the most to slow back down. On a wheelset you’ve already built light, a heavier valve is the part most riders forget to account for.
The dust caps are aluminium too — we don’t fit plastic to anything. On a high-end carbon wheelset, a cheap plastic cap is usually the first part to crack, seize onto the threads after a wet ride, or simply go missing. These caps are machined from the same aluminium as the valve stem, so they thread on smoothly every time and age the way the rest of the wheel does.
Rim depth decides the length you need, not preference. As a rule of thumb, pick a valve at least 1 cm longer than your rim depth — a 45mm deep rim calls for the 55mm valve, for example. The 35mm valve suits rims up to roughly 25mm deep, the 55mm valve covers 35–45mm rim depths, the 65mm valve is built for 45–50mm sections, and the 80mm valve reaches through the deepest 65mm carbon rims in the 9th Wave range. If your rim depth falls between two lengths, choose the longer one — a valve that’s slightly too long still seats cleanly under a pump head, while one that’s too short won’t reach the rim bed at all.
Each length is sold as a pair, enough for a complete wheelset front and rear, and every one of them mounts and seals exactly the way you’d expect from a dedicated tubeless valve: no adapters, no shims, just the right length for your rim.
